Saturday, June 05, 2010


Huayhuash Circuit Heaven

Back in the tranquilo town of Huaraz, from which many seekers launch their adventures. Two days ago my hiking friend, Joaquín, and I returned back from ours-- nine days of heavenly, demanding trekking of the Huayhuash Circuit. We met in town on May 24th and began planning out and stocking up. After chatting with a number of knowledgable locals, we determined that we could handle the trek on our own without the usual guides and donkeys. So we set out on May 26 on a 5am bus to Chiquian which, despite a flat tire, got us there in time to catch another ride to Pocpa, and from there a mining bus (a Japanese company has bought up lots of resource-rich land here) to our starting point. By 12:30pm we were feeling our chests heaving and legs calling for mercy as we hiked up our first steep switchbacking mountain. Backpacks were loaded with food (soups, rice, beans, apples, nuts, raisins, coffee, coca leaves, chocolate, peanut butter, bread, tuna, avocados, cheese, salt, oil), 4L gas for our "cocina", pots and small plates, sleeping bags, tent, mattresses, warm clothes, cameras and water. Perhaps 40 or 50lbs of weight, Joaquín bearing the heavier load, lucky me:)
We made it over our first of many passes, and as we peered into the expansive valley below, we knew we were in for some of the most precious consecutive series of moments of our lives. Simply and utterly gorgeous... blessed with constant views of snow-capped mountain range, glaciers, snaking rivers, all shades of blue and green lakes around surprising corners, condors, laughing birds, horses, sheep, donkeys, dogs, cows, flowers, waterfalls, multitude of stars, strong connection with the moon in its fullness, Peruvians on horseback always with a smile and kind interaction... I could list more.
There were several days we trekked for over nine hours, and one day in which we went off-trail and morphed into daring rock climbers alongside glaciers, challenged to comprehend our topographic map which eventually led us under headlamp light back to a trail where we set up camp in the dark. That day we ascended over 1000m. Our bodies were blissfully in full use. Such lengthy and demanding exercise is one of the greatest routes for me to feeling immensely and absolutely alive. We could feel our systems charged and pumping... so in tune with the miracle of our body temple.
On day five, we took a full day off to rest, refuel, bath in the lake below the waterfall, journal and do a bit of yoga. With the exception of a handful of hikers who walked past, we essentially had an entire valley to ourselves. Ah, the wonder that churns in me when I recall this day and all those glorious moments... one day I hope you´ll experience it to understand.
The most trying aspect of our trek were the merciless freezing nights that often times left us sleepless. They were true psychological tests waiting for night hours to crawl by for the rising sun to dethaw us and allow us to crawl out of our small tent home. But the beauty of the days rejuvenated us, and our endless meandering and inspiring conversations kept us light, joyous and enraptured.
Yesterday Joaquín and I spun with the over-stimulus of city life and re-entry into the movement of multitude of dreams we have simmering. It´s taking me some time to reorient myself after days in heaven; what a Gift.
Pictures to follow. Abrazos fuertes...